Why Zelenskyy wore that shirt to the Oval Office
Ukraine has a wartime mentality, and so does its president. That’s why Zelenskyy chooses military style attire over a formal suit. So why does Zelenskyy get flak while others go without criticism?
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Clothes speak louder than words.
What happens inside a person, they unconsciously broadcast to the outside through fashion. And what if there is a war inside?
That's why Volodymyr Zelenskyy wears military-style garb to all his meetings with world leaders. Even in the White House, even at the most important negotiations.
His choice is controversial for Western leaders, but for Olena Gusseva, designer and founder of the Miligus military uniform brand, it is obvious.
“It's not like we came to the frontlines in evening dresses. It's absurd. People feel this way and they broadcast it. We are all wearing [fashion inspired by Ukrainian military uniforms] now.”
In today's world, diplomacy goes beyond the negotiating table. It manifests itself in words, gestures, and even clothing. Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, who has a policy of wearing military-style clothing, became the object of criticism when he showed up at the White House last week without a suit.
But why is this politician's appearance so controversial? Maybe it’s because the criticisms of Zelenskyy are being made in bad faith.
From Churchill, who wore a military uniform to the White House during World War II; to Mahatma Gandhi, who did not abandon the Indian traditional outfit in favor of a traditional suit – history proves that clothing can not only reflect reality, but also shape public attitudes and international politics. This is not about fashion, but about power, communication and the symbols that define an era.
“Zelenskyy has the war in his heart, [the war] that is happening in our country. He lives it,” Olena Gusseva told The Counteroffensive.
She has dreamed of designing clothes since childhood. She studied to become a fashion designer and opened her own small studio in 2015, which produced collections of exquisite clothes for well-known brands and designers in seven countries.
When the war began, fashion in Ukraine halted. Tactical clothing became essential. At first, Olena hesitated, hoping for a quick end, but soon realized the war would drag on.
Her team shifted from branded designs to creating gear for medics, firefighters, and most importantly the military.
They changed the silk to special fabrics, designed and sewed small batches, sent them out for testing, got feedback, adjusted them, and sewed them again.
"We sent [our first uniform] to the East [frontlines] for testing, and it was completely criticized by the soldiers. It was a fiasco... We started to adjust everything, because making fashion clothes is one thing, and tactical clothes have slightly different requirements," Olena said.
In May 2022, a military uniform was created that the team of women now sews for the military on a regular basis. Each uniform is made according to NATO standards, it is functional and durable, and every detail matters.
According to Olena, their uniforms are an improved version of standard Ukrainian army clothing, outfitting more than 50,000 Ukrainian soldiers.
“When performing combat missions, you don't have to think about clothes. You have a lot of other things, and your clothes should complement and help you. It needs to be long-lasting, not too hot, and have lots of pockets and small details,” Olena said.
But military style today is not just for the front line.
The whole country is at war, and this is reflected in everything, including what people wear. Camouflage, tactical jackets, boots - they have become commonplace not only for the military, but also for volunteers, medics, and displaced people.
In the summer of 2024, Olena was approached by a woman Liliia Vinarska-Buina whose husband was at war and asked to make a long, fitted evening gown out of pixelated fabric. She was going to the Cannes Film Festival.
“This dress conveyed the message that we are all at war... We sewed a red piece [of fabric] on the heart. This is a symbolism - we are all free, but her heart is red because we are all in pain. Not just the military, but the civilians as well. It is a reflection of the inner world,” Olena said.
The same goes for Zelenskyy, the designer believes. The Ukrainian president is part of this new reality. His choice of military attire for international meetings is not just a gesture, but a symbol: Ukraine can't afford suits while its people are forced to wear pixelated uniforms.
Yet many do not accept this, including in the White House. During his recent visit to the United States, Zelenskyy was openly criticized for his attire, accused of not following the diplomatic dress code. His military style was seen not as a symbol of a state struggling to survive, but as a breach of protocol.
When Trump met Zelenskyy at the White House, he remarked that he had “dressed up” - obviously sarcastically, as the Ukrainian president remained true to his military style. The only change is that instead of khaki, he chose a black outfit with traditional Ukrainian symbols.
Trump's aides have repeatedly hinted that the White House chief would prefer to see Zelenskyy in a classic business suit. However, Zelenskyy remained in his usual attire, which caused irritation.
During Trump's conversation with Zelenskyy in the Oval Office, American journalist Brian Glenn asked Zelenskyy if he even had a suit.
“I will wear a [suit] after this war will finish. Maybe something like yours, yes, maybe something better. I don’t know, we will see. Maybe something cheaper,” the Ukrainian president replied to the journalist.
The case of Zelenskyy's suit shows how differently the war is perceived inside and outside Ukraine.
"The message [that Zelenskyy wears a military uniform] has not been sufficiently conveyed to foreigners. Those who support Ukraine understand this, and those who are hesitant find it hard to understand why Zelenskyy is not wearing a suit. Was it difficult for him? This situation has shown that we need to continue to explain this: we are not in the same field as a country that lives a normal, peaceful life," Nataliia Nechaeva-Yuriychuk, a historian, told The Counteroffensive.
This is not the first time that there has been a visit to the White House or an informal business meeting with American leaders. Winston Churchill, whom Zelenskyy is often compared to, also set aside formal suits during World War II. He frequently met with the U.S. president wearing a ‘siren suit’ – a practical jumpsuit designed for quick wear during air raids.
In Britain, it was commonly worn by both adults and children seeking shelter from bombings. Churchill’s choice of clothing symbolized wartime urgency, just as Zelenskyy’s tactical wear does today.
Saudi Arabia's crown prince and de facto ruler usually appears in public in traditional dress. However, this is not his personal preference, but rather the style of all members of the royal family and officials of the country.
The North Korean leader also did not bother to choose a Western outfit, instead appearing in public in a traditional North Korean uniform. This suit with a collar is known in the West as the ‘Mao jacket.’
The Prime Minister of India also prefers to wear traditional attire such as kurta and bandhalas for official meetings. However, the latter is somewhat reminiscent of Western suits, so we can say that his style is a cross between traditional style and the Oval Office’s preferred dress code.
Among world leaders, ex-President Rodrigo Duterte of the Philippines was a real rebel when it came to dress code. Although he wore a traditional Barong Tagalog, he often appeared at meetings in jeans and leather jackets, emphasizing his image as a man of the people and ignoring Western standards.
In each of the previous examples, the leaders met with President Trump, albeit during his previous term.
So it was probably not the suit, but Zelenskyy himself, Nataliia Nechaeva-Yuriychuk believes. If he had arrived in traditional Ukrainian clothes, or even a Western-style business suit, they would have found another reason to criticize him: too formal, wrong color, wrong tie. The clothing issue was just a convenient way to pick on him and distract from the substance of his visit.
The war has already changed not only Ukraine, but also its visual code. Even if the military style fades into the background after the victory, the tactical elements will remain - in details, colors, comfort and functionality.
Tactical clothing is fashion. This is what Olena wants to continue after the war is over. Miligus is already developing uniforms for women, taking into account their physiological characteristics, so that they can be comfortable and safe during combat missions. They also plan to enter the international market and export military clothing abroad.
"The war is within us, and unfortunately it will be with us forever," Olena Gusseva sums up.
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NEWS OF THE DAY:
Good morning to readers; Kyiv remains in Ukrainian hands.
TRUMP TEAM OUTREACH BEHIND ZELENSKYY’S BACK: Four senior members of Trump's inner circle have been secretly discussing the possibility of holding elections in Ukraine with some of Zelenskyy's political opponents, Politico reports, citing three Ukrainian lawmakers and a Republican foreign policy expert.
The conversations were held with Yulia Tymoshenko and former President Petro Poroshenko. They officially say they have not discussed the prospect of Ukrainian elections with the United States. Poroshenko said he was working with American partners to maintain bipartisan support for Ukraine.
UKRAINE GETS 80% OF INTEL ABROAD: Ukraine receives about 80% of its intelligence from allied countries, mainly the United States, Politico reports, citing a Ukrainian military source.
Ukraine has become less dependent on U.S. weapons systems than it was at the start of the full-scale war. Officials in Kyiv say up to 40 percent of the weapons it uses on the front are made in Ukraine. But it still relies heavily on the U.S. for intelligence capabilities, long-range weapons, and air defense.
A pause in the exchange of weapons and intelligence could affect Ukraine's efforts to make gains on the battlefield after Kyiv launched counterattacks in the east and attacked Russian oil and gas refineries. It could also limit Ukraine's ability to provide early warning of future Russian air attacks.
FRANCE OFFERS INTEL: France is offering intelligence to Ukraine after Washington said it was suspending intelligence sharing with Kyiv in an effort to increase pressure on Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, French Defense Minister Sébastien Le Coronneu said, Reuters reports.
He also said that France's nuclear weapons stockpile, developed at the beginning of the Cold War and designed to be independent of the then dominant powers, Washington and Moscow, is sufficient.
MACRON NEGOTIATES EXTENDING FRANCE’S NUKE UMBRELLA: In an evening address Macron expressed France's readiness to provide its nuclear deterrent to protect its European allies. The United States, within the framework of NATO, keeps nuclear warheads on some European military bases as a deterrent. In light of recent U.S. actions and rhetoric, there is concern about the U.S. turning its back not only on Ukraine but on all of Europe.
The French President also stated that “Europe is entering a new era” with the US shifting its position towards Ukraine and NATO. It is unacceptable to remain a mere observer of the war in Ukraine and not take action, according to Macron.
European leaders are gathering today for a meeting in Paris to discuss a plan for a lasting peace, part of which may include the deployment of peacekeeping troops after the signing of a peace treaty to prevent a repeat Russian attack.
US STEPS UP DEPORTATION FOR UKRAINIANS: Donald Trump's administration plans to revoke temporary legal status for about 240,000 Ukrainians who fled the war, a senior Trump official and three sources familiar with the matter said. This could lead to their deportation as early as April.
The decision is part of a broader initiative by Trump to reverse humanitarian programs introduced by Biden that have allowed more than 1.8 million migrants to enter. A DHS spokesperson said there were no official announcements at this time.
TURKEY READY TO SEND PEACEKEEPERS: Turkey is considering sending its peacekeeping troops to Ukraine, Milliyet reported, citing its own sources. The Turkish Defense Ministry later confirmed that the country is ready to deploy troops to Ukraine if necessary to ensure peace.
WHAT TO DO IN THIS TIME OF HELPLESSNESS?
Anne Applebaum and Tim got together this week for a gut check on the problems facing our world right now – and how to get off the couch and do something about it:
DOG OF WAR AND CAT OF CONFLICT:
Today's Dog of War is not alone, but with a Cat of the Conflict. These are dog Flika and the kitty Rudi, who live with Myroslava's in-laws. Usually, they live peacefully, although sometimes Rudi attacks Flika and kicks her off her couch.
Stay safe out there.
Best,
Myroslava and Nastia
Why the military garb? Zelenskyy lives in a world of stark reality. Trump and his followers, stark delusion.
Donald Trump is a Russian stooge. He will do Putin’s bidding. Calling Brian Glenn a “journalist” is greatly overstating his credentials. Zelenskyy was set up in the Oval Office debacle. Slava Ukraini!