A tribute to Gyudmed Ngarampa Ven Thupten Dorje, Old Lama Gyupa, the longest resident of Tushita Meditation Centre in Dharamsala, who passed away this week. Nearly 45 years on that hill. A three-year Guhyasamaja retreat. Lama Yeshe’s friend. And somehow also the secret recipient of contraband mutton momos smuggled up the back road after dark by a backslid Baptist Buddhist from the USA who spoke three words of Tibetan.

On transmission, presence, and what actually passes between people when language steps aside. Also: the Uggs.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​