Since the wildfires broke out on January 7th, it’s been impossible to avoid second-guessing my decision to have settled in Los Angeles. I’ve wondered if it’s safe to live here long-term, whether it makes sense to start a family here someday—both of which I was intent on doing beforehand. But I love L.A., it’s my home now.

I thought it would be helpful, for me personally, and maybe for everyone else who loves this city (and specifically, our food scene) that’s had to question what a future looks like here over the last couple of weeks, to consider the perspective of restaurants that are just getting started on their L.A. journey. This is the story that resulted from the conversations I had with a handful of restaurateurs who just opened (or are gearing up to open) new spots. It’s a long one, but a meaningful one, and I hope you’ll read it.