I’m reading Seth Thévoz’s excellent new book on London’s clubland and I’m struck by an irony. Many wine influencers spend their time keen to show wine appreciation is no longer the preserve of stuffy all-male private members clubs in St James’s… by the curious vehicle of photographing themselves appreciating wine at a private members club on Pall Mall.

I grant you that’s a little unfair. Boodles and Whites don’t accept women. Whereas the wine world’s much more modern private members club welcomes women with open arms. Once they’ve been proposed and seconded by existing members. And paid a fee equivalent to a month’s salary for a plurality of the population.

As it happens I rather like wine’s private member’s club on Pall Mall. But let’s not pretend that photographing yourself there is a revolutionary act.