Hairstory just made its first move into brick-and-mortar retail. As of April 5, the cult-favorite New Wash conditioning shampoo (co-wash) is on shelves at 370 Ulta Beauty stores and ulta.com. For a brand that spent twelve years selling almost exclusively through salons and its own website, this is a big deal.

I’ve not only tracked Hairstory since its launch, but I was also a New Wash customer for a while. There’s a lot to like. But some of its marketing needs a reality check and some clarification, especially for folks with specific hair concerns.

Now that the brand is about to reach a much wider audience, let’s dive into exactly who should use New Wash and who should stay away.