Behind a hidden door inside a compact Greenwich Village art gallery, the restaurant’s setting is a big part of its allure. This space wasn’t originally part of the plan. After a planned MacDougal Street lease fell through, the team found a larger space nearby that they couldn’t afford to build out entirely as a restaurant. The solution was to turn the front of the space into a rotating art gallery (curated by Silva, including work from Mr. Star City) and tuck the dining room behind it, an idea that ultimately became the restaurant’s defining feature.