The state of NYC restaurant writing is dire. Grub Street publishes an article every 3 days, Eater has been out Eater’d by the Infatuation and gives me nothing I can’t get on Google Maps, and Ligaya Mishan’s prose is so overwrought it feels more challenging to finish a NYT review than the Thomas Pynchon book I’ve been reading 4 pages at a time. Meanwhile, on substack everyone is telling me to go to the same expensive seafood tower spot, or they are so performatively NOT doing that they’re rolling around in muck and calling it a good time. I’m so desperate for someone good to write about food here in the vein of a Vittles, please tell me who's doing it.