Stage Two of the Giro today finishes in a wet and rainy Veliko Tarnovo, the spiritual and historic capital of Bulgarian national sensibility. This was the seat of the Tsars of the second Bulgarian Empire, which held sway in the Balkans, and held at bay the Ottomans from the late 12th Century until defeat in 1422. The history of these lands is bloodier than almost anywhere in Europe. Just look at the four sided war memorial just next to the finish line.

1877-78 relates to the Russo-Turkish war, which ended in tens of thousands being massacred by Ottoman forces, and Bulgaria becoming an autonomous state within the Ottoman Empire.

1885 marks the Serbo-Bulgarian war in which Bulgaria expanded hugely, and reunified its former territories, strengthening its autonomy, but further destabilising the fragile ethnic balance of power in the Balkans.

1912-18 and 1915-18 The twin calamities of the two Balkan Wars and the Great War initially saw Bulgaria ally with Serbia, Macedonia and Greece against the Ottomans, before turning on their allies, siding with Germany and Austro-Hungary, a course of action which ended with catastrophic defeat, from which the country, you might argue, is continuing to recover.

Endless war, which should at least put into some perspective the 80 years of peace (albeit coupled with enormous hardship) since 1945.