This is my friend christopher st. cavish, as we were eating some extremely stinky Shaoxing food in a restaurant close to the Grand Canal in Hangzhou. He’s a brilliant food writer and video maker - indeed, him and his collaborator Graeme Kennedy have just been nominated for a James Beard Award for a remarkable documentary they made on the once great salt industry of a town called Zigong. The awards are next month in Chicago - I hope they win.