The start time for the press view of Mark Leckey’s exhibition in Paris was 4:30pm, meaning the gallery, Lafayette Anticipations, had laid out a version of the midafternoon snack known as the goûter, which here meant loose-leaf tea in transparent pots plus cookies with sea salt on top. It was mostly ignored by the critics and impresarios in attendance, though not by me. Advances in cookie technology are one of the few quality-of-life gains to have taken place in the past ten years. It turned out that the Lafayette cookie was at the vanguard even then. The gooeyness to dryness to cakiness ratio was so perfect that I gasped audibly, causing the publicist to start and look over. I asked if they were always available or just made for the event and she said it was the former. She encouraged me to have another, but I declined.