A funny thing happened on the way to the camel market. Our car was stopped in the middle of the road, and we were surrounded by 10-12 men with large sticks and a sword.

They were from the Bilen tribe, one of the 9 ethnic groups recognized in Eritrea. The Bilen live in and around Keren, the country’s second-largest city, and comprise 2% of the population.

Evan, my driver and guide, and I had our windows rolled down (few cars in Eritrea have air conditioning). It was 30°C (86°F), the country’s cool season.

The men were asking for money for their friend’s wedding, holding out a collection basket (like those used in Catholic churches), and Evan put in a few bills.

The two men by my open window smiled at me and gestured to my purse, which was sitting near my feet on the floor of the car. I smiled back and shook my head no.

The men were not overtly threatening in any way, but it was nonetheless a tad disconcerting. I asked Evan, who makes this 3-hr trek from Asmara to Keren several times a week, if this had happened before, and he said no. He was bewildered too.

A Bilen wedding lasts 7 days, with the post-wedding celebrations stretching for 2-3 months. During the first 40 days of marriage, the groom carries a ceremonial sword to ward off evil spirits.

The men attending the wedding carry sticks (which look a lot like field hockey sticks, J-shaped and club-like), and raise them in the air when dancing during the wedding festivities. Here’s a look at a Bilen wedding and the men dancing with their sticks.

Read full post ⬇️