“As I trudged up the steps, past the first couple of gates, it became clear that the geology of the area was unlike anything I’d seen before, flat in its entirety except for these epic egg-shaped ructions of stone, all the more eye-catching for the arid, unremarkable flats from which they rose. It was well worth the climb, more for the landscape and the thrill of the steep, treacherous curves falling to verticals.”