Fritto misto is one of those things I will always have to order if it’s on the menu. This one, part of an epic feast at Toklas to celebrate five decades of the fabulous Gemma Bell, was elevated by the use of fried mixed herbs, crisp and green and fragrant amidst the crunchy, polenta-coated fried scallops, squid and fish. Just dreamy. If you haven’t been to Toklas yet: , make it right. A true London institution already.